Wanaka to Greymouth

On 15 January I take a shuttle from Wanaka to Twizel, since my knee is not completely okay yet. Most of the scenery around here I have enjoyed before, but it is always very impressive. Close to Twizel I get the first glimpse of Mt Cook in the distance. In the evening I get 'kicked of' the shuttle in Twizel that is deserted at that time, but luckily I have seen a sign to the campground. This seems to be a huge area, where I can choose a quiet spot under the pine trees.

The next day I wake up under a clear blue sky and there is not even a bit of wind - great! I am going to cycle in the direction of Mt Cook and most of the way along Lake Pukaki, that is very blue because of the sedements at the lake floor. There are a lot of very amazing views along the way - sorry, very hard to get on the picture - you have to experience it yourself! At one of these great spots I just sit for a while and let everything soak in, when a huge MPV comes along, two guys get out with their far too expensive camera equipment, in a few seconds they make some pictures, while the ladies stay in the back of the very comfortable car and off they go again. Okay, that's also a way to experience NZ.

I stop at Glentanner Park - about 25 km from Mt Cook Village - to have a coffee and decide that I will stay the night here, but go on without my luggage to Mt Cook. The weather can't get better than today (which will be proved the next day), so I need to make the most of it. The ride to Mt Cook Village is magical and I take a lot of pictures. I visit the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre that just opened last month. It is a very special place to be at this moment. The place is a small museum with a lot of the information about the history of climbing in the Mt Cook region. I also see a nice 3D feature on this area. All pretty well done!

During dinner at Glentanner Park that evening we see a fire across from Lake Pukaki. A strong wind is blowing so the fire spreads very fast. A lot of helicopters arrive with water buckets but the fire just gets bigger. Very scary! When night falls the helicopters can't fly anymore and when I get up the next morning it is sad to see the area of trees that has been destroyed in the mean time. The helicopters are already very busy again. Later I read in the newspaper that it has taken 3 days to get the fire under control and by then around 700 ha had been burnt.

One of the results of the fire was that there was no power anymore at Glentanner and surroundings, so without food I could not stay there anymore. The next morning, however, the weather was pretty bad, mainly strong winds. (I was very glad I did the trip to Mt Cook the day before.) I did not want to cycle in this weather which would have been pretty dangerous and had to think of another solution: ask a campervanner for a lift to somewhere. At the first campervan I am already lucky. It is a UK family living in Australia since some years and enjoying NZ for the first time. They are very helpful and friendly and I have a good chat with them on the way to Fairlie where they drop me off. Since the brake of my bicycle is causing a problem I have to find a bike shop. According to my booklet there should be one in Fairlie, however, that one has gone a few years ago. In the post office I speak to a lady who assists me to find someone who might be able to help me. I go there and this seems to be the guy who owned the bike shop before - small place! He easily fixes the problem and that is that. I head to the camp ground in Fairlie where I meet another female cyclist. This Canadian lady just started her trip around NZ and was happy to meet another female cyclist, since she thought she was the only one. During my trip I sometimes do not see cyclists for days and on other days I see around 10. It is always nice to exchange ideas, routes, plans etc.

My next goal is Geraldine, but the day is pretty bad with a lot of rain and when I arrive in Geraldine I do not feel very happy and I recognize the place and do not like it at all. So, after lunch I decide to ride on, mainly because the weather improved as well. I go to Mt Somers and when I arrive there I have the smell of lily's in my nose (there is a huge lily nursery here) and 100 km on my teller. I do not do a lot that evening, apart from pitching my tent, cooking, eating, writing and then sleeping.

Now I have to decide whether to go to the West Coast, via Arthur's Pass, or go along the East Coast, of which I have seen most already. I decide on the West Coast and head to Springfield. The first part of the route is easy, but then I get to Rakaia Gorge. It is beautiful, but I have hardly time to enjoy it, since twice my chain runs off and after I have fixed that, I have a flat rear tyre, ggrrrhhh! It is around 30 degrees Celsius and I start to fix the problems. I do not have a lot of luck and soon I look like a chimney sweeper. I even try to catch a ride but there is hardly any traffic, so I have to fix the bicycle. After around 1.5 hours I finally manage to get the bicycle ready again and move on.
When I pass a town I decide to call a shuttle service for tomorrow to bring me from Springfield to Greymouth - luckily this is possible, because I do not see myself cycling over Arthur's Pass with an only 90% okay bicycle. I am very glad when I arrive in Springfield where I can have some food and a long, warm shower!

The next day I have to get up early to catch the shuttle. This is a great way to go over longer or difficult distances, making a cycling trip around NZ an opportunity for nearly everyone. The first part to Porter's Pass I realise that I would not have liked to do this on the bike. It is very steep and narrow. I have met a few guys who have done it, however, and did not mind it at all. I enjoy the scenery from behind the window and love it this way for a change. The surroundings of Arthur's Pass Village is really great and I see some nice campgrounds, but more suitable when you travel around by car. Amazingly I am the only one awake in the shuttle during this trip. All other tourists are too tired to see the beautiful scenery.

Then I arrive in Greymouth where the fight with the sandflies starts. These animals just eat you alive!
Later on I find a revenge - just open your mouth while cycling and I can eat them alive in stead of the other way around.

For pictures see: http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh106/AnitasTourDeAotearoa/Wanaka%20to%20Greymouth/

To be continued......